Pick the Right Fly Fishing Reel

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Considering the rod, line, and reel, the reel is the least important part of your fly-fishing outfit. Right? A good rod provides power to punch out a well-executed cast facilitated by a smooth, supple matched line. All the reel does is hold the line. Not so fast! While you may not need some elements of the reel to be the highest quality based on the size of fish you typically pursue, the reel must be capable of handling that special instance when luck blesses limited skill, and a behemoth grabs your fly. While the prospect of a monster is remote on streams where stocking programs plant fish with the expectation of 100% harvest prior the inevitable fish kill as the water warms, beasts can be present in any water supporting year-round survival.

All things considered; the reel included in any decent combo package is good enough for stocked trout. If you expect to catch anything bigger than the typical one-pound stocker, evaluate your reel against the points below before spending money. There are three basic choices – the standard single retrieve, a multiplier or an automatic retrieve. Unless you have a special situation, the single retrieve reel will do just fine. This type of reel has a 1:1 ratio where a single turn of the handle brings in a length of line equal to the circumference of the spool. When evaluating a reel consider size (capacity, weight), quality (materials, construction, finish), and performance (arbor, drag, retrieval system, noise, left or right hand retrieve).

Size is the most critical criteria since it dictates line capacity and weight. The reel must balance with the rod and manufacturers make this easier by designing against specific line weights plus backing. Therefore, a reel rated as 3/4 wt will hold either a 3 wt or 4 wt line with backing. A rod’s target line weight is inscribed above the handle. The reel should be able to accommodate going up or down a line weight; providing flexibility to handle different streamside situations. Since fly line weight is standard and the backing is very light, the actual weight of the reel itself becomes essential, not only to balance the rod but to minimize fatigue. The difference of an ounce is noticeable at the end of an all-day fishing expedition. For example, the inexpensive ($50) cast aluminum Cabela’s Prestige Plus 3/4 wt reel weighs 5.4 ounces. By comparison, spending $85 gets a fully machined 4.7-ounce Metolius reel from Fly Fishing Benefactors. To check whether the reel is the correct weight, attach the reel (with line) and observe the balance point. Ideally, it is at the end of the handle. If the reel is too heavy and you are concerned about fatigue, you need to upgrade – quality drives weight.

Quality is the sum of materials, construction, and finish. Most good fly reels are machined from a single block of aluminum with a hard anodized, corrosion resistant finish. The intricate designs are not only lovely to look at but reduce weight by removing material. The more “spidery” the design, the higher the cost since the reel will spend more time in the cutting machine and reduce the overall throughput of the assembly line. You want a design that is both light and durable, but not delicate. It needs to be tough enough to bang against rocks in the rough terrain around mountain streams as well as resistant to the inevitable drops from slips and falls. Less expensive reels are made from cast aluminum or composite materials. These are a step down from machined aluminum, are heavier, and may not include robust components or offer comparable performance characteristics.

The cost driver for machined aluminum is the time spent on the assembly line. More cuts, more time, higher cost. On this reel, the designers looked for ways to eliminate mass while maintaining structural integrity

Regardless of construction, make sure the spool fits tightly on the frame. Any gap between the two could snag or nick your fly line. A good reel has stainless steel gearing to fight corrosion and should include a one-way roller bearing to keep the line from backing up.

Look for a tight fit between the spool and the frame. These seven-year-old Orvis Battenkills are still tight despite being banged on just about every rock in the Blue Ridge

Performance is the final attribute. The standard single retrieve fly reel has a 1:1 ratio. If your primary target is mostly small brook trout on mountain streams or stocked fish, the ratio doesn’t matter. You will never get those fish “on the reel” with the need to crank the handle and use the mechanical advantage of a higher ratio to work the fish. Instead, you slowly retrieve the line hand over hand, allowing the rod tip to absorb the shock of pulls and runs. If you expect to encounter larger fish whose lunges rip out line and get onto the backing, a large arbor reel holds more backing to provide working length as you deal with a once in a lifetime catch.

Most reels have a disk drag. It can be made from Teflon, glass composite, cork or a variety of proprietary materials and operates by compressing the components together in the same way a disc brake slows a vehicle. Regardless of the material used in construction, a good drag will not bind. To test for binding, set the drag and pull against the line. It should pull smoothly away from the reel. If the line slips or jerks, the drag is defective. Any slip sends a shock down the line that could cause a light tippet to break. Take the spool off and look at the drag mechanism. On higher-quality reels, the drag will be sealed, protecting it from sand.

As you spin the reel, listen for noise. Some reels make a reassuring click while others operate in stealth mode, utterly silent. Neither is better than the other; it’s a personal preference. If you fall on the side of silence, the click will drive you crazy – so avoid those. Finally, if you like to crank with your left hand, confirm the reel allows either a right or left hand retrieve. Good reels feature a quick, no-tools reversible bearing to account for southpaws.

After picking the right reel for your rod and line, look for a spare spool. At some point, you will want to go up or down a line weight. Having a spare spool with a different weight line already loaded makes changing a trivial operation. Since manufacturers evolve designs to give us something else to buy, pick up a spare spool while they are available for your model.

So, what about the price? You do not need to spend hundreds of dollars on a nice reel – especially when you are just starting out. Sticking with Cabela’s and Fly Fishing Benefactors as the points of comparison, Cabela’s RLS+ series fly reels are all machined aluminum with the 3/4 wt being 4.9 ounces and running $125. The Fly Fishing Benefactors 3/4 wt Metolius reel is only $85 and a little lighter at 4.7 ounces while $130 gets their large arbor 3/4 wt Fire Hole model at 4.48 ounces. The bottom line is it does not have to cost a fortune to get a good solid reel that will last for years, maybe a lifetime, if you pay attention to quality. As your needs change and your commitment to fly fishing grows, you can investigate the additional features of the higher priced reels, but for now, stick with any of the good, reliable models available at the low end.

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