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The Rapidan has been just over my horizon for years. It lurked to the south at the edge of my awareness; hanging there like a bad debt that demanded to be paid. Finally, I woke up. I was quick to investigate Rapidan for trout given the reputation it had up near the Shenandoah, and completely overlooked the fact that this river would grow in volume and change character as it surged towards the sea. The Rapidan and Rappahannock are only about an hour's drive from my home; even in the cesspool that is the DC area normal traffic pattern.
So, I drove down to Ely's Ford. This is a public access spot on the Rapidan just upstream of where it slams into the Rappahannock. It is the only access point at the upper end that has good access to wading - you do not need a canoe to work the Rapidan here.
I rolled into the parking lot a bit before 7 AM and started to gear up. As I dressed, I chatted with an old timer who was there waiting for some kayakers to show up. If you have not figured it out yet, ALWAYS chat with anyone close to a fishing spot. They may have good info to share and I have never been given a bum steer. Once he confirmed I was there to fish, I asked him whether I should go up or downstream. "Up" he said "No question about it" and off I went.
Here's the first challenge. There is no trail on the bank. The Old Timer said this was true of both sides and I confirmed it by crashing into the woods on the southern bank. Tight, tight, tight. Bring your garden shears if you are going to stay land bound. After 100 yards of thrashing, I detoured into the river in the hopes that it would be shallow enough for me to wade up. Anything would be better than the thousands of "wait a minute" vines that grabbed at every part of my body.
Good call. Turns out that staying out of the river was the wrong approach. I should have started wading at the access point. With the drought, the water was low (measured 0.38 at the Culpeper gage), and I could have had an easy walk up the center of the river. Not being stupid, I kept in the river on the way out.
Once in the river, I loaded up with a grasshopper pattern with a small nymph as a dropper and started working the structure on both sides of the river as I moved up. Instant action! The 'Gills were home and ready to fight! They were pecking like mad at the large grasshopper and would divert to the nymph when frustrated. I had hoped the size 10 hook on the hopper would allow me to avoid the gills and get more smallies. No way. It was a free for all. Literally, on every third cast, I was hauling in a fish.
It quickly became apparent that the smallies were laid up in the deeper water; conceding the shallows at the edge of their world to the gills. Easier said than done. The bright summer light, with its intense reflection off the flat water, made it impossible to find the deep spots without stumbling over them..
Once I did discover a deeper spot, I would stay and work it hard, pulling several smallies out of each. In one place, near a sunken tree in the middle of the river, I hooked up with a real trophy. After jerking me off balance, he charged the tree, looped around it, jumped and spit the hopper back at me as he dove back under the tree. Dang. Once I realized what I had, I moved to the west side of this hole and spent a good 30 minutes in fish heaven. All I had to do near this spot was flick the hopper upstream of the structure and wait for it to drift downstream. Every cast was a gill or a smallie. Wow!
This stretch does have its fair share of chubs. They are monsters as you can see from the picture below! I'd rather get a gill than a chub, but action was action.
I worked the river from 0700 to about 1500. Non-stop action. I was a happy guy as I pulled myself out of the water and flopped back in the truck!
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Remember to refer to my rating explanations - these are based on what I look for - so RED for Physical Fitness translates to easy physically - you do not need to be in shape to fish this section. I prefer terrain that is tough to get into and out of.
Bottom line: Everything worked here. Terrestrials, poppers, large attractor patterns, streamers and even the infamous trout magnet that the purists shun. After the first hour of fishing, I realized that I did not need the dropper and abandoned it. I was picking up enough on the surface that it just did not matter.
There are three really good spots on this portion of the Rapidan. Anyone who is an experienced fisherman will recognize them instantly - the corner, another about half way up to the end of the red line and there is a nice pool complex where I turned around. No secrets exposed - these are obvious.
This trip changed my perspective on gills. Up to now, I was frustrated when they would hang on. Now, I realize that they are just as fun to catch as you get the same rush when they slam into your top water presentation. Gills Rock! .... but I'd still rather get a smallie.
I was using a 6wt rod with a bass taper 6wt line. It worked just fine. Since the trees are back and the river is fairly broad, there is plenty of room for casting. In fact, this is the perfect place to bring a beginner for their first time on the water. They will not have to hassle with tree hangups and will get the immediate feedback of how fun fly fishing can be as a result of the suicidal bluegills. And... the smallies are not very picky here either!
I marked this a Yellow for pressure because Ely's Ford is one of the few access points around. Given that, it becomes a choke point and common launch for kayaks, canoes and other fishermen. I was the only person fishing the day I was here in September. One final point, the gauge at Culpeper was 0.38 - that level produced the flows and depths discussed here.
Getting there: Head west on Route 3 from I95 and turn right at the corner of the Chancellorsville battlefield on Ely's Ford Road (State Rt 610). Follow it for several miles. You will go past the new Hunting Run reservoir. Keep going. You will see a sign for public boat landing. Turn immediately to the right before you get to the bridge. You are there. Pick up some trash if you get a chance to ensure that this public access spot will remain open to the public.
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